Vape Mod Resources
- If you just need to figure out battery amps and such, there is a good table here:best18650battery
- Everything Temperature Related can be found at Steam Engine Wire Wizard
- Here is a link to evolv’s site to download the eScribe software (about halfway down the page)
- Follow this Facebook Page of Mooch for Everything You Might Want To Know About Batteries (the link is pointed at the page with links to all his tests. If that doesn’t work for you search batterymooch in Facebook. Thanks to Jason B for the tip!
- and here’s a pdf from CASAA that covers battery safety in depth: e-cig Battery Safety
When Tesla Motors switches from 18650 to 20700 it’s time for vapers too. Ten percent size increase yields 33 percent more energy. Consider a 20700 system for your next vaping mod.
Choosing the right vape mod is like taking aim at a moving target. The technology is changing so rapidly not just in e-cigs and vaporizers but in every aspect of modern life. Let’s start by defining a few terms:
- ego 510 thread: the ego 510 threading is now the industry standard for e-cigarette batteries. All this means is that if you are buying a tank or clearomizer and a battery, they will connect to each other as long as they are both ego 510 compatible.
- high drain: when a high drain battery is specified a minimum rating of 25 amps is required but 30A or higher is recommended.
- spring loaded: since the intro of the iStick a spring loaded 510 has become the most desirable for good contact between tank and battery.
- mAh: milli-amp hours An effective way to gauge the relative power a battery contains is to measure its up-time against the power being drawn. Hence, a 1600 mah is capable or 1600 hours at one milliamp discharge (an e cigarette draws 1 to 2 amps 1 amp equals 1000 milliamps).
- Li-ion: Lithium Ion – the current standard in electronic storage, most people have been using them in phones, laptops and cars for the last decade or so. There are a variety of different formulas and you’ll need to do some Googling to flesh this description out but basically IMR are high drain batteries, meaning they are able to discharge more current. IMR are usually LiMn which uses manganese instead cobalt. The manganese has less resistance than cobalt so the flow of electrons is greater and the battery is less stressed.
- VV: variable voltage VV batteries allow the user to adjust the voltage being sent to the clearomizer or tank. Variable voltage batteries are basically “dumb” and depend on the user to chose the proper setting.
- VW: Variable Watts VW batteries are not only voltage adjustable but include sensors that determine the resistance of the coil in the tank. This helps avoid burning your coils and takes the headaches out of setting voltages. Not all VV/VW batteries are capable of sub-ohm.
- Direct Current or DC is a typical implementation for for easy, one button e-cigs. The manufacturer matches the current of the battery to the atomizer. Lithium Ion batteries typically maintain voltage until they’re almost discharged and then slowly decline. One button DC usually employs a shut-off when the current starts to wane, thus keeping your experience constant.
Since moving to dual coil setups on all popular brands of atomizers, the battery and it’s integrated circuit (DNA, YiHi, etc.) has played an even bigger part in the overall success of various vape mod designs. With Variable Voltage, you can crank up the volts being sent to your coil. This creates more heat across the wire coil, which in turn vaporizes the e-juice at a hotter temperature, yielding a warmer, stronger vape and drawing more mAh. So what could go wrong? While most e-cigarette coils originally ship with a 2 ohm coil (2 ohm resistance) we couldn’t help but experiment with lower resistance right? This worked okay down to about 1.8 ohm resistance but then funny things started to happen. Our vape started to taste burned.
Enter Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage. These smarties entered the fray with a rating of 20 watts and started matching voltage to current. This solved the problem down to 1.6 or 1.4 ohms but then we started needing More Volts. To match the resistance properly down from 1.2 to the sub-ohm levels (less than 1 ohm resistance) a higher capacity battery was needed.
Some Notes on Lithium Ion Batteries used in vape mods
– it is Not necessary to pre-charge a new Li-ion for 12 hours prior to first use
– most accidents with batteries occur when charging. Try to avoid leaving the battery on the charger after the charge is complete
– a Lithium Ion battery should last about 3 years regardless of use
– although they are designed to maintain constant power the voltage level drops as the battery drains
– the Manufacturer of the battery Matters. Sony used to be the king of batteries but the 18650 arena is dominated by Samsung, due to its reputation for consistent power and reliability
– knock-off or cheap batteries are usually involved in cases of malfunction causing fire. Regulated mods usually have built-in safeguards against over-charging, reverse polarity, etc.
– replace damaged batteries immediately. Check the outer wrap for cuts, scrapes or dings regularly.
– mech mods (or unregulated mods) are designed for advanced users with a better a than average understanding of the electronics and inherent risks. Stick with regulated to keep it simple, but if you do decide to go mech be sure to get one-on-one instruction on the use and dangers. Mechanical Mods require knowledge of batteries, springs, firing pin adjustments, switches, and compatible atomizers. Mechanical mods can be difficult and dangerous if setup improperly.
– charging a e-cig mod with USB is convenient but a full cycle charge on a stand-alone battery charger produces a faster, deeper charge
– mods using 2 or more 18650 batteries should use an external (stand-alone) battery charger
Temperature Control Vape Mods
The properties of kanthal create a resistance on the wire and the resistance creates heat as a charge is introduced. That worked fine when we were all using small batteries at a resistance of 2.0 Ohms or just under. With the introduction of variable voltage batteries things got more complicated and it wasn’t uncommon to refer back to a chart of resistance versus volts.
The confusion around VV was most evident when you started noticing everyone had theirs cranked to the highest voltage. Dry hits, spit back and the burned taste seemed to be getting more common with the new tech so manufacturers quickly brought out new mods with built in circuits that would sense the resistance and make the proper adjustments. This worked quite well for most of us but some were pushing the watts a little higher and we started hearing about new dangers in vaping from the higher temperatures.
Health and Safety:
By accurately limiting the coil temperature we can control the rate of vaporization and avoid the production of unwanted, potentially-dangerous compounds due to excess heat and/or degradation of wicking materials. Even Vegetable Glycol, the liquid used to the max in e juices, can become toxic at temperatures above 280° C as well as many flavorings and sweeteners.
It stands to reason that a wire and wicking material will degrade more quickly at higher temperatures
Taste and Feel – By regulating the coil the temperature remains constant at the wick when the charge is applied. The vapor production is consistent with no dry hits so the flavor is fullest. You enjoy complete control of the rate of evaporation and the temperature of the vapor in your mouth.
How TC Vape Mods Work
Every metal has it’s own resistance at room temperature and the resistance itself changes as it heats. For temperature controlled vaping the original design was the Evolv DNA20 with a 20W limit. Then came the DNA40 at 40W designed for Nickel (Ni). Nickel has a very high resistance so a higher gauge (smaller diameter) wire was needed. Though the Ni performed well in this configuration the softness of nickel combined with the thinness of the wire made building coils difficult and early off-the-shelf pre-made Ni coils weren’t cutting it for everyone. By adjusting the temperature up and using titanium or a twist of kanthal and nickel some die-hards were making do but it was definitely not ready for prime time.
The reverse engineer of the DNA40 by Chinese manufacturers with the introduction of the YiHi platform and the innovations they made to the design allowed mods with wattage to 150 and a whole new generation of vape mods appeared. Temperature Control was coming of age and higher watts actually made sense when you could keep the temperature properly controlled. The iPV4 uses the YiHi circuit.
The latest design from Evolv is the DNA200 (information like this gets dated over time – rather than continually update with the latest introduction you can read about them in our product pages as they come available. They’ve managed to enable better measurement at the wire of the relationship between resistance and temperature, making for easier use of other metals such as Stainless Steel and Titanium and a more accurate temperature calibration. As well, the unit allows a full 200 Watts of power in TC mode, effectively throttling the watts as the resistance heads toward 0.2 ohms.